The Alpine Pack

I’ve been thinking about making a specialised alpine pack for a long time now. There are a couple of considerations to take such as weight, abrasion resistance, equipment attachment points and all without impeding the wearer’s freedom of arm movements.

I’ll cover the reasoning and building process in more details in some future posts, but to achieve a decent ratio of weight to material strength, I selected a tough woven UHMWPE fabric (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene more popular name is Dyneema). These woven fabrics are extremely resistant to wear and tear. In the end, I settled for a relatively new fabric from Challenge Sailcloth called Ecopak Ultra EPL 400. The future will tell if this was the right choice, but after working with it, I like it a lot.

Since Alpine packs get more abuse than most bag – if you ever had to haul a pack up a wall, you know – I wanted to be able to remove most of the straps and cords in a pinch to replace them, or to be able to prevent snagging in more difficult conditions. I also reinforced the most exposed parts to prevent critical failures during an expedition.

In order for the compression straps and ice-axe attachment to be replaceable and removable, I decided to use the daisy chains as the main static feature. Each of the removable element ties into them using T-bars. In the end, this also allows me to rearrange the attachments if I need a different configuration or longer compression cords for some reason.

In order for this to work though, the daisy chain spacing for each “loop” must be relatively small (about 22mm) which would potentially make it difficult to attach climbing equipment directly to it. Since this was not my primary concern, I went ahead with that design. You’d be surprised how much every detail counts in a design like this.

The side compression straps themselves do have a fixed point (non-removable part) where the quick-release LineLoc ties into the bag. But beyond that, the cord and the T-bar can be removed in a pinch.

On most bags, I do like to have one small quick-access pocket where I can store papers, energy bars, keys and so on. Since I still wanted to avoid any potentially snagging, I went for a very low profile design with a zipper closure. It will not hold much, but it will do the job and not protrude from the bag.

As we were talking about hauling earlier, I was debating options for a while. I always build strong roll-tops so I can carry my bags grabbing the loop they form. I use small high-end carabiners that can take up to 30kg of load and always use metal D-rings instead of the usual Nylon to make sure this won’t fail over time. I decided that would make a poor rope attachment point for hauling since the D-Rings are too small for a climbing carabiner and you could reach 30kg of pulling force on a bad day’s haul.

Instead, I went for a handle style carrying attachment that would fit the needs for hauling quite well and double as a handles if you prefer a straight roll-top rather than dry-bag style closure. Since I wanted the bag to stay levelled and haul straight, I decided to add symmetrical attachments so that the pack would be balanced. Each handle was tacked well and should be handling loads in the 20kg range without any problem.

I would not expect the pack to be filled to the brim for a haul, but if it is, this design will not be ideal if the roll-top stands higher that the handles. In this case, one should haul with only one handle and hope for the best.

The last feature worth mentioning is probably the ice-axe attachment although there really isn’t much to talk about. It is a very simple design, tried and true. It can support a single axe or a hybrid setup (2 smaller axes). To secure the lower part of the axe, a simple webbing and quick release is tried between the two daisy chains. This strap can be lowered or raised depending on the axe configuration, but there is probably no need for this. I admit I was a bit worried about the strength of this puny little quick release that fits a 10mm webbing. After fiddling with it for hours, I figured it would do the job. It’s anyway easy to replace and upgrade but if anything ever fails on this bag, I assume this would be it.

Since we only talked about the front so far, it’s only fair to show you the back. The padding is minimalist, with some 3D mesh on the lower back, and the shoulder straps are lightweight as well. I rarely use foam in ultralight shoulder straps, but it also limits the maximum load that one can comfortably carry. Everyone is different, but for me these stay comfy up to about 7kg.

And the best part is, it only weights in at 410 grams. Ok, now enough with the talking, let me just dump a boatload of pictures! Stay tuned for more detailed discussion about this bag!

Bricks can’t go wrong. Greeblies come later.

A lot of bags follow a relatively simple “brick-like” construction. These bags might not have the best looks, but they are definitely the easiest to build without a lot of experience, and you’ll get a perfectly functional bag. I ended up using this one for a 10 days solo trip above the arctic circle and it got me there and back.

When in doubt, always cut straight! You can always add curves and greeblies later.

The two side panels are almost identical. The pockets have different slopes and sizes.
The front and back panel are also assembled out of multiple smaller panels to form clean rectangles.

At the end, the final assembly starts from the side panels aligned to the bottom panel, then “closing” with the front panel as the last big step. Final trims and tidying up the top will hide any misalignments or small dimensional issues.

Just need to add the front panel now.

The final bag is documented under https://abcpacks.com/the-ballast-pack.

The Ballast Pack

The Ballast pack is designed for the lightweight multi-day hiker/trekker. Designed to shave off unnecessary weight, but still keeping a sturdy construction, reinforcing area prone to wear, and providing proper gear attachments and a removable top lid.

This pack’s main compartment offer approximately 35L for your main load, and the two side pockets offer in excess of 2 liters for quick access items like water, rain gear and so on. Additionally, the removable top lid offers in excess of 3L of sealed volume secures with a strong zipper on the side.

Amongst other attachments, the packs offers two vertical daisy chains on the front panel which can be laced with shock cord if need be, one trekking pole attachment with quick release on a side panel, a dual ice axe loop on the front, and an extra strong set of daisy chains and D-rings on the bottom for securing tents, sleeping pads, or anything you’d like.

For padding, the back panel has an embedded (non-removable) full-length 4mm closed cell foam pad, with an additional 4mm CCF band and 3D mesh on the hip. The shoulder straps take a minimalist approach to 4mm closed-cell foam and 3D mesh, but will work well for loads up to 8kg.

And since you’re probably interested in some specs, here you go!

Volume35+5L
Dimensions80x28x18cm (roll-top closed, without lid)
Weighttyp. 500g (no lid)
max. 600g
Carriescomfy. 8kg
max. 10kg
FabricsDyneema/Nylon Ripstop (black on black), 1000D Cordura
ClosureRoll-top + Velcro
Quick Release Top Lid (removable)
Strap padding
4mm CCF padding + 3D Mesh
Hip Belt4mm CCF padding + 3D Mesh padding on the hips
25mm strap with 2-sided quick release buckle
Pockets2+1 (one on each side, different heights, inverted inclination + top lid zipper pouch)
Attachements– Vertical daisy chains (x2) on the front panel for gear or shock cord
– Gear loops on the front panel (4x on each end of the daisy chains)
– Compression strap with quick-release (x1) and with ladder lock (x1)
– Strong Shock cords with LineLoc to secure side pockets content.
– Daisy chains (x2) on bottom, with D-rings (x4)
– Daisy chain on each shoulder strap
– Loop inside for a water bladder
– Top lead attachment can be converted to straps.

Afterthoughts on a V-Shaped Pack

The final shape is extremely pleasing, and mostly due to the combination of the V-shape design and the very subtle curves. To ensure the cuts were symmetrical given the slightly higher complexity than usual, this was the first time I spent the time creating a mostly complete pattern for the main panels (all but the roll-top panels) prior to cutting any fabric. I usually build patterns – a posteriori – as a mean to record a shape I ended up with, if it turned out to be pleasing.

All in all, there are 14 different panels of various sizes that came into building the main compartment (shoulder straps not included). I only created a pattern for the major parts, and cut the rest out of “experience”.

The best way I’ve found to build durable patterns is to cut them out of thin Tyvek as I explained briefly here. It’s a little more investment than simple paper, but it holds a lot more abuses.

Seam-sealing the Skinny Pack

Let me share with you some afterthoughts on my first foray into seam-sealing. I did a bit of digging, and opted to use 3M 9485PC double sided transfer tape. Overall, it’s a great product to work with, but I think the fabric used here, (Dyneema®/Nylon Ripstop) is too heavy and does not bend well enough to really work as a the internal face of the seam sealing. If I was to do it again, I would probably go for DCF.

3M 9485PC tape and prepared strips with Dyneema®/Nylon Ripstop fabric on one side.

One interesting learning I made, is that on lightweight silicon-coated Nylon fabric (60g/m²), this tape did not stick at all! I wasted a good strip. I don’t have the reference anymore, but I would assume the Dyneema®/Nylon Ripstop fabric that really worked well was PU coated. Beware!

This experiment taught me one important thing: I will not seam-seal my pack except in very specific circumstances. It’s just too much of a hassle.

Here are a few pictures of the construction process behind building the Skinny pack. If you are wondering why I am wearing gloves in some of the pictures, it’s because I wasn’t sure how sticky the stuff is. I turned out to be utterly unnecessary, and I quickly removed them.