Make the Winter Pack from White X-PAC VX07

I have already covered all of the techniques I used to build the Winter Pack in other posts so I will not dwell on the details too much. The pack is relatively simple in terms of features, it has an almost vertical daisy chain, a side zipper pocket, a roll-top closure and a padded back. Plus some quality of life details.

For most of my builds, I design the front (1) and back (2) panels first, then I sew on the side panels (3, 4) to the front panel. The last pieces of the puzzle are to set the height of the roll-top with multiple parts if required, and only after that do I sew on a wide panel for the roll-top across the 3 front and side sawn panels.

Representation of the cut panels (not to scale)

The bottom panel itself is more often than not the last thing I put together, and stitch it to the front and side panels before finishing the pack by attaching the completed back panel (2,5,6).

I wanted a decent back padding for this pack since I might have to carry pointy or uncompressible gear (water bottles, alcohol stove) and not a lot of temporary padding. I went for an inversed T-shaped pad with 8mm closed cell foam topped with 3D mesh. All directly sewed on the back panel to keep every light and water resistant. To avoid wasting a lot of mesh, I decided to stitch two parts together with a flat-felled seam. The foam itself ended up being a three parts piece.

To secure the shoulder straps, I usually embed the ends in between separate panels (2, 5). I also use the same technique to add the load-lifters and the roll-top compression strap (2,5,6). The smaller pieces of the back panel will define the height of the last roll-top piece (7).

The shoulder straps are just my usual design, with an outer shell out of Cordura and 3D mesh inside. I always add daisy chains to to the full length of the shoulder straps to attach the chest strap, or smaller equipment. For this build, I went with ladder-lock buckles instead of Lineloc buckles since weight was not a huge concern.

There isn’t much else to talk about really. The front panel is very lean, with just the daisy chain attached to the main fabric without reinforcements (if the daisy chain was planned to attach heavy equipment, I would back the VX07 fabric to avoid future tear outs.

The pocket itself is just a flat pocket sewn onto on side panel. Since I am right handed, the most logical side to put the pocket on was on the right side (when wearing the pack) so I can slide the bag on one shoulder and access the pocket while walking.

That’s it! I did not cover the side compression straps since there is really nothing special about it. Enjoy!

The Winter Pack

I thought I’d make something nice for myself and since I wanted a functional day pack for winter hiking, I went right ahead and built one. What’s so special about a winter pack might you ask? Well, I might need to carry warmer layers although not necessarily wearing them so that’s a bag that can hold its volume. I like to hang gloves off of the exterior of the pack so I’ll need something for that. I would often carry a hiking pole (sometimes two) so attachments are a must. If it’s a warm day and I do not have much to carry, I would prefer a pack that can be compressed down to a low profile. I’ll need a simple hip belt if I’m scurrying through some annoying terrain and don’t want the pack to move around. And… that’s it. More of less. Ah yes, and I want some quick access pocket so I can grab a snack on the way to the top. So I made that!

There you have it, my perfect winter pack. Here are more pictures, I wouldn’t want you to have too much to read before getting to the good stuff.

In the end, the bag volume can almost pretty much double if I loosen the compression strap and use some of the additional volume the the roll-top offers. I don’t have great pictures of this, but the following snapshots should help see the difference between the compressed and non-compressed volumes. The roll-top can be extended some more to really double the volume.

Stay tuned for some behind the scene pictures!

Bricks can’t go wrong. Greeblies come later.

A lot of bags follow a relatively simple “brick-like” construction. These bags might not have the best looks, but they are definitely the easiest to build without a lot of experience, and you’ll get a perfectly functional bag. I ended up using this one for a 10 days solo trip above the arctic circle and it got me there and back.

When in doubt, always cut straight! You can always add curves and greeblies later.

The two side panels are almost identical. The pockets have different slopes and sizes.
The front and back panel are also assembled out of multiple smaller panels to form clean rectangles.

At the end, the final assembly starts from the side panels aligned to the bottom panel, then “closing” with the front panel as the last big step. Final trims and tidying up the top will hide any misalignments or small dimensional issues.

Just need to add the front panel now.

The final bag is documented under https://abcpacks.com/the-ballast-pack.

The Ballast Pack

The Ballast pack is designed for the lightweight multi-day hiker/trekker. Designed to shave off unnecessary weight, but still keeping a sturdy construction, reinforcing area prone to wear, and providing proper gear attachments and a removable top lid.

This pack’s main compartment offer approximately 35L for your main load, and the two side pockets offer in excess of 2 liters for quick access items like water, rain gear and so on. Additionally, the removable top lid offers in excess of 3L of sealed volume secures with a strong zipper on the side.

Amongst other attachments, the packs offers two vertical daisy chains on the front panel which can be laced with shock cord if need be, one trekking pole attachment with quick release on a side panel, a dual ice axe loop on the front, and an extra strong set of daisy chains and D-rings on the bottom for securing tents, sleeping pads, or anything you’d like.

For padding, the back panel has an embedded (non-removable) full-length 4mm closed cell foam pad, with an additional 4mm CCF band and 3D mesh on the hip. The shoulder straps take a minimalist approach to 4mm closed-cell foam and 3D mesh, but will work well for loads up to 8kg.

And since you’re probably interested in some specs, here you go!

Volume35+5L
Dimensions80x28x18cm (roll-top closed, without lid)
Weighttyp. 500g (no lid)
max. 600g
Carriescomfy. 8kg
max. 10kg
FabricsDyneema/Nylon Ripstop (black on black), 1000D Cordura
ClosureRoll-top + Velcro
Quick Release Top Lid (removable)
Strap padding
4mm CCF padding + 3D Mesh
Hip Belt4mm CCF padding + 3D Mesh padding on the hips
25mm strap with 2-sided quick release buckle
Pockets2+1 (one on each side, different heights, inverted inclination + top lid zipper pouch)
Attachements– Vertical daisy chains (x2) on the front panel for gear or shock cord
– Gear loops on the front panel (4x on each end of the daisy chains)
– Compression strap with quick-release (x1) and with ladder lock (x1)
– Strong Shock cords with LineLoc to secure side pockets content.
– Daisy chains (x2) on bottom, with D-rings (x4)
– Daisy chain on each shoulder strap
– Loop inside for a water bladder
– Top lead attachment can be converted to straps.

The Skinny Pack

The Skinny is an experiment with adding very slight curvatures to an otherwise V-shaped day pack. It stays lightweight by using black on black Dyneema®/Nylon Ripstop (160 grams per square meter) while reinforcing abrasion-prone areas with Cordura by minimizing the overall features: only two relatively small side pockets and a few accessory loops.

The pack also re-imagines the load-lifters by using instead a high-strength 4 mm elastic cord distributing the lateral and front-to-back movement of the pack to the shoulder straps. The load-lifting is minimal by design due to the small volume of the pack, but still adjustable through the tension of the top vertical compression strap.

The breathability of the back panel is provided a full-length wide 3D mesh, and the back panel is padding with a thick (8 mm) high-quality closed cell foam protecting the spine.

In order to avoid the discomfort of rubbing against the 3D mesh – which is worsened by the humidity that can gather within the mesh during a prolonged effort – the bottom part of the back panel is doubles with a soft low-denier Cordura where the skin could be the most irritated. Another mitigation against the same discomfort is done by the shape of the lower part of the backpack, essentially curving to avoid a sharp edge resting on the iliac crest.

Without further due, here are the specs, followed by a huge amount of pictures covering all angles and details. I hope you like it!

Volume18+4 liters
Dimensionsapprox. 50x27x13 cm (roll-top fully closed)
Weight310 grams
Carriescomfy. 6kg
max. 8kg
FabricsDyneema/Nylon Ripstop (black on black)
350D Cordura
ClosureRoll-top with quick release buckle
Vertical compression strap
Back Padding8mm CCF padding + 3D Mesh
(80% of surface covered)
Strap PaddingN/A (except for the 3D mesh)
Hip BeltN/A
Pockets2 (small side pockets)
Attachments– Small gear loops on the side panels (x4)
– Strong gear loop with metal D-ring on the front panel
– Full-length daisy-chains on both shoulder straps.
ABC Skinny Pack Specifications

Thick Foam in Shoulder Straps

I love building backpacks. I just do. But the one thing that I enjoy the least, is building padded shoulder straps. Between the threads making a mess, the clearance below the presser foot not being enough, and the needle breaking because of tensioning issues, I moved away from padding shoulder straps entirely. Nonetheless, here is a example of what you can do with some patience. And I will also throw in some other pictures of the complete build for the city hiker pack.